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Diagnostics / Troubleshooting

Why Your Garage Door Won't Open: Causes and How Each Is Fixed

By Omar, Factory-Trained Technician· Updated 2026-01-12

A garage door that will not open usually means a broken torsion spring, a dead opener, or a snapped cable. If the opener runs but the door stays put, a spring or cable has failed. If the opener is silent, the fault is electrical. Never force a door that feels heavy.

Why won’t my garage door open?

A garage door will not open for one of three reasons: a broken spring, a failed opener, or a snapped cable. If the opener motor runs but the door stays still, a spring or cable has failed. If the opener is silent, the problem is electrical. The sound the opener makes tells you which.

Every garage door is a balance system. The torsion spring or extension spring stores the energy that does the actual lifting, the opener only nudges a near-weightless door along its track. When a part of that system fails, the door becomes hundreds of pounds of dead weight that no opener motor can move. The first job is to figure out which part failed, because forcing the wrong one turns a small repair into a large one. For a full symptom-to-cause map, start with the full garage door troubleshooting guide.

Infographic showing a garage door that will not open has 3 main causes, a broken spring, a dead opener, or a snapped cable, with a stuck door pointing to a spring or cable and a silent opener pointing to power, the GFCI, or the remote, and a warning never to force a 150 to 250 lb door. HUSH Garage Door Service, call (613) 255-1968.
A garage door that will not open has three main causes: a broken spring, a dead opener, or a snapped cable.

If your car is trapped and you need it moving today, our garage door won’t open repair service covers same-day spring, opener, and cable fixes across Ottawa.

First, is it the opener or the door itself?

Pull the red manual release cord and lift the door by hand. If it lifts smoothly and stays put, the door is fine and the opener is at fault. If it feels extremely heavy, jerks, or slams down, a spring or cable has failed and the door, not the opener, is the problem.

This single test splits every “won’t open” call into two groups. A healthy door, disconnected from the opener, rises with one hand and holds at waist height. If you cannot budge it, or it crashes back down, stop and do not re-engage the opener. Running a motor against a 150 to 250 pound unbalanced door is how a five-minute diagnosis becomes a snapped cable or a bent panel. With the door clearly balanced, the fault is power, the remote, or the opener unit itself.

The causes when the opener runs but the door won’t move

When the motor hums and the trolley travels but the door stays shut, the opener has disconnected from the door. The usual culprits, in order, are a broken spring, a snapped lifting cable, or a trolley still sitting in manual-release mode. Each leaves the motor turning against nothing.

A broken torsion or extension spring (loud bang earlier)

A broken spring is the most common reason a door will not open, and the most dangerous. Most springs are rated for about 10,000 cycles, roughly seven years of daily use, after which the steel fatigues and snaps, often with a loud bang you heard hours earlier.

Look at the spring above the door. A clear gap in the coil, or two separated halves, confirms it. With the spring gone there is nothing to counterbalance the door, so the opener simply cannot lift it and the door feels like a wall by hand. This is not a DIY repair: wound torsion springs hold enormous force and have injured plenty of homeowners. We stock springs on the truck and offer same-day professional broken torsion spring repair across Ottawa.

A snapped or unwound lifting cable

A snapped lifting cable lets one side of the door drop while the other stays high, jamming the door crooked in the track. The cable runs from the bottom bracket up to a drum on the spring shaft, so when it frays or unwinds, that corner loses all support.

You will often see a frayed steel cable hanging loose, or the door sitting visibly tilted. Do not run the opener: pulling against a jammed, crooked door can pull the track, bend a panel, or snap the second cable. Cables usually fail because of rust, a worn drum, or a door that has been running off balance. The fix is snapped garage door cable repair, and we always check the springs at the same visit, since a cable rarely fails alone.

The trolley is in manual-release (disconnect) mode

The trolley is the carriage that connects the opener to the door arm. If someone pulled the red emergency release cord, the trolley disconnects and the motor will run with nothing attached, exactly as if a spring had failed.

This is the happiest cause, because the fix is free. With the door fully closed, pull the red cord straight back toward the opener motor until the trolley clicks, then run the opener once so the carriage re-latches onto the chain or belt. If it will not re-engage, the door may be slightly off-balance and need a quick hand. For the full manual-release routine, the full garage door troubleshooting guide walks through it step by step.

The causes when the opener does nothing

When the wall button does nothing at all, no hum and no trolley movement, the fault is electrical or inside the opener. The usual causes are no power, a tripped GFCI, a dead remote battery, a burned-out motor, a stripped drive gear, or an engaged side lock blocking the safety circuit.

No power, tripped GFCI, or dead remote battery

Start with the simplest cause. Confirm the opener is plugged in, check the breaker, and reset the GFCI outlet it shares, since a tripped GFCI cuts power silently. If only the remote fails but the wall button works, the remote battery is dead.

Garage outlets often share a GFCI circuit with outdoor receptacles, so a wet outdoor outlet can trip the one feeding your opener. After a power outage, unplug the opener for ten seconds to clear a confused logic board. A fresh coin or alkaline battery revives most dead LiftMaster, Chamberlain, or Genie remotes. If the opener light flashes a code, you can decode the blinking opener light to pinpoint the fault faster.

A burned-out opener or stripped drive gear

If the opener has power but only clicks, hums, or stays dead, the unit itself has failed. The most common internal failure is a stripped plastic drive gear, followed by a blown capacitor or a dead logic board. The motor tries to start but cannot turn the trolley.

A single click with no movement points to a stripped gear or failed capacitor. Total silence with confirmed power points to the logic board or motor. On a chain or belt opener, a worn drive gear is a common, repairable part. Whether to fix or replace depends on the opener’s age and brand. We diagnose this on site and handle garage door opener repair and replacement, with opener repair from $150 and a new opener installed from $220.

A locked door or engaged side lock

Before blaming the opener, check that the door is not simply locked. An engaged side lock bar slides into the track and physically pins the door shut, and a vacation-locked or child-locked wall button disables the opener entirely.

Many older doors have a manual side lock or a keyed handle that family members forget about. If the opener strains and clicks against a locked door, you risk the same gear and cable damage as forcing a frozen door. Slide the lock bar out of the track, turn off any “lock” or “vacation” mode on the wall console, and try again. It sounds obvious, but a forgotten lock is one of the quickest “won’t open” calls we close.

Why won’t my garage door open in the cold or after a power outage?

In an Ottawa winter, a door that will not open is usually frozen to the slab or has a spring that snapped in the cold. Cold steel becomes brittle, so tired springs break on the first freezing morning. After a power outage, the trolley or the opener’s memory is the issue.

When meltwater refreezes under the bottom seal, ice bonds the door to the concrete and the opener strains against it, which can strip the gears. Never force it: free the ice first, then run the opener. Cold also accelerates metal fatigue, which is why so many springs let go on the coldest days of January. After an outage, re-latch the trolley by pulling the red cord toward the door, then unplug the opener for ten seconds to reset it before testing one full cycle.

Can I open a garage door with a broken spring?

No, you should not open a door with a broken spring. The spring counterbalances 150 to 250 pounds of door weight, so with it broken there is nothing holding the door up. Lifting it by hand, or with the opener, can drop the full weight on you, your car, or the opener.

If you heard a bang and the door now feels like a wall, the spring is gone. Leave the door where it is, keep people and vehicles clear of its path, and do not run the opener even once. The safest move is to call us and let a technician install a matched spring. Forcing it to free a trapped car is exactly when cables snap and panels bend. We carry springs on every truck for same-day professional broken torsion spring repair.

If your car is stuck inside and you need the door open now, do not pry it. Call (613) 255-1968 for 24/7 same-day emergency garage door repair and we will get you moving safely, seven days a week, with no overtime fees.

How much does it cost to get a garage door opening again in Ottawa?

A single torsion spring starts at $200, a spring pair at $300, and opener repair from $150. The service call is $35 to $85 and becomes free on any repair over $250. We quote the part and labour up front, carry common parts on the truck, and never add overtime fees.

Most “won’t open” repairs land in a predictable range. A snapped cable repair is usually bundled with a spring check, since the parts wear together. A new opener installed runs from $220, and a brand-new single door installed starts at $1,500, with financing from $89 per month if a full replacement beats another repair. Because we stock Garaga, LiftMaster, Chamberlain, and Genie parts on the truck, most diagnoses end with the door working the same day. Claim your free service call with any repair over $250 when you book.

When this is a job for a factory-trained technician

A broken spring, a snapped cable, or a stripped opener gear is a job for a factory-trained technician, not a DIY fix. These parts hold or carry hundreds of pounds of stored force, and getting them wrong causes injuries and bigger repair bills. Safe checks stop at the manual-release test.

You can safely check for power, a dead remote battery, an engaged side lock, or a trolley in release mode. Everything past that, springs, cables, drums, and the opener’s internals, needs proper tools and training. HUSH technicians, led by factory-trained Omar, repair all of it across Ottawa and Gatineau, backed by our 90-day Done-Right Guarantee. Once you have ruled out the easy causes, or if the door feels heavy by hand, call (613) 255-1968 and book same-day garage door won’t open repair across the city. If your problem is actually the opposite, the reverse problem: a garage door that won’t close covers a door that lifts fine but will not seal shut.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my garage door opener run but the door won't move?
The opener and the door are now disconnected. The most common cause is a broken torsion spring, then a snapped lifting cable, then the trolley sitting in manual-release mode. The motor turns, but nothing is left to lift the door.
Can I open a garage door with a broken spring?
Not safely. A double door weighs 150 to 250 pounds and the spring carries all of it. With the spring broken there is nothing to counterbalance that weight, so lifting it by hand can drop the door on you. Call a technician.
Why won't my garage door open after a power outage?
The opener lost its settings or the trolley released. Pull the red cord back toward the door to re-engage the carriage, then unplug the opener for ten seconds to reset it. If the door is also frozen to the slab, free the ice first.
My garage door just clicks and won't open, what is wrong?
A single click with no movement usually means a stripped plastic drive gear, a failed capacitor, or a logic board that has lost power. The motor tries to start but cannot turn the trolley. This is an opener repair, not a spring issue.
How much does it cost to fix a garage door that won't open in Ottawa?
A single torsion spring starts at $200, a spring pair at $300, and opener repair from $150. The service call is $35 to $85 and is free when your repair is over $250. We carry common parts on the truck for same-day fixes.

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